20-27.12.10 - Mendoza, Rachel's 29th birthday & Xmas day

Having moved around every two or three days since we started travelling, we decided to stay in one hostel for 7 nights over the xmas period.  We were pleasantly suprised when we arrived at the hostel to find a huge room with ensuite, more akin to a 3 star b&b in England.

Mendoza is nestled 100km east of the Andes Mountains and has an economy supported predominantly by Petroleum and Wine.  It feels very European and is quite sophisticated with tree lined boulevards and several parks and squares.  The vineyards and city are fed from the snowmelt off the Andes through ancient stone canals and channels called acequias, which were originally built by the Incas.

For my birthday, Ryan treated me like a princess (even more than usual).  We decided to undertake a tour of the Bodegas (vineyards) of Maipu, through a company called Bikes and Wines.  They sorted us out with a couple of mountain bikes and armed with a rough map we headed out to explore and of course, taste some wine!!  We sampled wines, olive oil, preserves, liquores and chocolates at La Rural, Vina Maria, Farm Olivia, Trapiche and Historias y Sabores and finished off with a very late lunch of home-made pasta at La Melesca.  There were a total of 15 Bodegas open to the public and we bearly scratched the surface - meaning a second visit would definatley be in order!!

La Rural - Wine museum

Ryan & Rach wine tasting at La Rural

Ryan and the owner of Farm Olivia with 'Thumper'

 Rach & Ryan wine tasting at Trapiche

In the evening, we headed out to a restaurant called Azafran which had been highly reccommended by the hostel owner and we were not disappointed.  The restaurant interior was quite understated with the inside of one wall covered with jars of spices and cured meats hanging from another.  As we had eaten lunch quite late, we passed on the starters and moved straight onto the main course.  Shortly after arriving at the restaurant, we were approached by the Somellier and asked if we would like to accompany him to the wine cellar to select a wine for dinner.  The wine cellar was a circular room within the restaurant which was filled floor to ceiling with more different types of locals wines that you could imagine.  After asking what we were eating and what types of wine we both liked, he selected a Cabernet Savinogn which was perfect.  As we had eaten lunch quite late, we passed on the starters and moved straight onto the main course. 

After sampling several delicious minature home-made breads, our main courses arrived.  Ryan had a fillet steak served simply with caramelised onions and chips and I had a minature fillet topped with spiniach, blue cheese and crispy filo pastry served with a sweet potato mash.  We can honestly say that they were two of the best steaks we have ever tasted, cooked medium-rare perfectly to our tasting.  We could hardly speak to each other as was we kept chuckling away to ourselves in satisfaction as to what an amazing place Argentina is.  The entire meal, including wine, water, dessert and tip was the equivalent of £50.  Perfect.

Unfortunatley, neither of our phones are working in Argentina so apologies to those who sent me birthday wishes by text - I should receive them in a couple of weeks when we reach Chile. 

The following day was a quiet one taking in the Parque General San Martin.  We then embarked on some more wine tasting (when in Medoza!) and headed to The Vines of Mendoza located around the corner from our hostel.  There are a number of different 'flight' options as they call it and we tasted the 'Las Muestras' selection.  The tasting was in a walled courtyard which was sheltered from the sun by vines.  Very beautiful and quite sophisticated for us.  The budget doesn't stretch to this sort of thing very often but we could definatley get quite used to this fantasy world...

'Las Muestras' wine flight at The Vines of Mendoza

Rach hidden by the collassal amount of wine at The Vines of Mendoza

Ryan after a couple of 'yes that was nice...and that was nice too' responses to the sommelier

We were surprised to see that most of the activities in Mendoza were available on xmas eve & xmas day so we embarked on the Alta Montana (high mountain) tour on xmas eve.  We both hate going on tours and we despise jumping off the bus with the other 20 people only to take a photo and jump back on again.  However, without hiring a vehicle, the only up-close view we would get of the Andes from Mendoza would be from the window of a bus en-route to Chile.  After stopping off at a couple of local landmarks, we headed through the Parque Provincial Aconcagua (home to the highest mountain in the western and southern hemispheres) to the old border crossing with Chile.  At 4000m, this was the highest point that either Ryan or myself had reached above sea level.  Luckily, (aside from a bit of heartburn which I thought for a while was altitude sickness!) neither of us suffered for the short time we were there.  I'm sure when we get to Peru and climb to over 6000m you will hear from me again!

The road we climbed in a mini-bus to the border between Chile and Argentina

Rach at 4000m above sea level - think the heartburn was passing at this point :)

Puente del Inca bridge at 2700m - naurally formed by minerals contained in a receeding glacia many moons ago

Xmas Day was a strange affair, but fun all the same.  We had bought a bottle of Trapiche Extra Brut we had tasted a few days previously, and headed to Plaza Independencia (main city square) to drink it.  We've tried to keep quiet about the weather as we haven't seen rain since Sao Paulo, Brazil in mid-Nov but it was upto 38deg on xmas day - we did for a short while wish that we were as cool as you have all been and we regulary dream of snow angels!  After another bottle of vino and a spell with two Irish '118 got your number' look-a-likes at a party hostel we settled for two steak and chips and a bottle of red.

Our stay in Mendoza came to an end with yet more wine tasting on the bikes as we headed on an overnight bus to Buenos Aires.  The night started out with a full blown game of bingo (in Spanish obviously) with the conductor, a shortish period of 80's soft rock followed with Cyndi Lauper killing it with 'girls just wanna have fun'.  All this was then washed down with a 3 course (of sorts) meal which included braised steak and mashed potato.  AND we were in cattle class!  We're both really excited about spending the next few days (including new year) in Buenos Aires and then heading south to Patagonia.

17 - 20.12.10 - San Juan (Parque Provincial Ischualasto & Parque Nacional Talampaya)

San Juan made a very convenient stop over to reach the small-ish town of San Agustin de Valle Fertil 250kms north where we were able to take day trips to the UNESCO world heritage listed parks of Ischigualasto (also know as the Valle de la Luna) and Talampaya. Valle Fertil was a strange little town in the middle of the desert, 4 hours from any significant settlement over a particular bumpy road. On arrival we were surprised to see 3 extremely friendly guys from our hostel who gave us a free ride to our extremely poor accommodation. The worst so far. We were advised that a local tango was being held in town which, after worrying about looking like gringo fools (not for the first time) actually turned out to be a kiddies traditional dance awards ceremony with no participation required whatsoever - pheww!! (nor any real tango at all!)  Something, yet again, was lost in translation...

We took a trip to the Parque Ischualasto, aka the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) which has been formed by two million years of erosion. The park is considered one of the most significant dinosaur graveyards on the planet. Our spanish-only speaking guide seemed to do a very convincing job of explaining how the luna landscapes were formed by tectonic plates sliding to create a plethora of interesting rock formations and how events throughout the Triassic period allowed the magnificant fossils to be formed. Sadly we understood none of it. Our Spanish language skills stretch to asking for bus tickets, directions, food in restaurants etc but our 6 week beginners spanish lesson in Leeds missed the bit on South American paleontological history. None-the-less, the rock formations and desert landscapes were pretty impressive to say the least.

The following day we took a trip 100km further north into the desert to Talampaya. This 220 million year old canyon, with it's red 180m sandstone cliffs on either side was absolutely stunning and dwarfed everything around it. In the canyon itself were a number of rock formations with petroglyphs and pictographs etched into the rock by inhabitants a thousand years ago. We were able to spot an abundance of wildlife such as condors, llamas, giant chinchillas (yes, really) and grey foxes.

Where's Walley? Part of the Canyon at Talampaya

Valle Fertil was our first real experience of the desert. Unlike the scortching but moist heat of The Pantanal, here is was an incredibly dry, energy sapping heat. They told us it was 43 degs when we arrived. We were not even aware that the scale went that high! Siesta's  here are taken very seriously. Everything closes at 1pm until 6pm leaving the place, again, like a ghost town. Not even tumble weeds bothered to tumble. It was lifeless. That said, the evenings were pleasant and the Tira de Asado (Argentina style steak) was awesome . People dine around 11pm, full families including children just to avoid the heat. We can't blame them. Time to get used to it and adjust our body clocks for Mendoza over Christmas, wine capital of Argentina. Not quite a coincidence!

11-16.12.10 - Cordoba Province

Corboda is Argentina's second biggest city to Buenos Aires. It is located in the Central Sierras, the second highest mountain range in Argentina after the Andes. After briefly exploring the city we took a 2 hour bus ride to Alta Gracia, a small colonial town 40km south of the city at the entrance to the Calmuchita Valley. The town is known for it's former Jesuit missionaries who built a large 'estancia' ovelooking the central square - To be frank, we thought it was a little dull....We were far more excited knowing the town was also home to the Guevara family (as in Ernesto 'Che' Guevara). Their former home, Villa Beatriz, has now been converted into the Museo Casa de Ernesto 'Che' Guevara. The museum showcased some of Che's personal belongings as well his original resignation letter to Fidel Castro. My favourite, of course, was the actual Norton motorcycle Che' used to travel Latin America brought to life in the book (& film) The Motorcycle Diaries.

Alta Gracia's Jesuit estancia

Everybody's favourite revolutionary's old home, Villa Beatriz, Alta Gracia

Che's Norton used to travel Latin America made famous in The Motorcycle Diaries

Back in Cordoba that evening we bought ourselves a couple of Argentine T-Bones from the supermarket for around £1 each. Rachel's cooking was the envy of the hostel as we tucked into fine succulent steaks washed down with mighty fine Malbec at £2 a bottle. We are really starting to love Argentina. It's all about meat and wine, then more meat followed by more wine. What could possibly go wrong?

After a couple of nights in Cordoba we headed 100km north to the little town of Capilla del Monte for some walking. This sleepy town lies at the base of 'Cerro Uriturco' which at 1979m, is the Sierra Chica's highest peak, albiet a baby by South America standards.  We set off at 8.30am, an hour later than planned (pretty good by our now lazy traveller type standards). At the base of the mountain we had to complete forms with our names, passport numbers and details of any illnesses before paying 40 pesos (£6) each to climb. We are not used to paying to walk but were told this was common in Argentina. Hmm!! We nailed the 4hr ascent to the top in just 2.35hrs and the 3hr descent in just 2hrs. Sounds hardcore but the start was actually 1000m above sea level.  That said, the walk itself was stunning with breathtaking views at the summit - Roll on Patagonia in January with snow capped summits at 4,000 metres.

The evening before the walk, Cerro Uriturco in the background

Rach and I at the summit of  Cerro Uriturco, camera balanced on a rock hence the wonky horizon!

Our last day in Capilla del Monte was spent cycling to some strange rock formations in a canyon called Paseo del Indio on the outskirts of the town. The £5 bikes we hired were like Trojan horses. Even worse than Chris's Harlem Vegas! After a short scamble up the canyon we found the Paseo del Indio, a 2 foot wide crack up the rock which was supposedly passable. With a little effort and a lot of laughing we got through. Shortly afterwards I crept around the outside of a rock while Rach climbed under it. I regret it now but as Rach entered the other side I made a 'hiss' noise like a snake. Poor Rach jumped a mile and was still shaking when I scrambled around the rock to join her - The last thing she needed after the spider incident. A bad move on my part but we both laughed it off. One of us a lot more than the other.....

Rach on her way up Paseo del Indio

Rach at the top of Paseo del Indio

07-10.12.10 Iguazu Falls (Argentina & Brazil)

There is much debate about which side of the falls is better. Argentina OR Brazil? After listening to much advice from fellow travellers we opted to stay on the Argentinian side in Puerto Iguazu. Mainly because there is much more to do in terms of trails etc (not because it is also a lot cheaper - Lee!). However, it is possible to cross back to the Brazilian side and back again in a single day to experience Brazils superior panoramic views.

Shortly after arriving at our hostel we met a fantasic couple, Darragha was from Ireland, Lucia was from Peru, they met in Chilli and live in Buenos Aires. We knocked back lots of vino and beer whilst Darragha cooked us some Argentinian steak in just his undies. After all, it was a tropical thunder storm and he didn't want to get his clothes wet which seemed perfectly rational to me....

Darragha in just his undies and Lucia

Our approach was to visit the Argentina side first to get up close and personal with this awe inspiring natural phenomenom. We started at the Garganta Del Diablo (The Devil's Throat), the highest place of the falls where something like 1800 cubic metres of water flow per second. At least this is what it said in the guidebook. Having seen it, I would say it's about right give or take a couple of litres...

Garganta Del Diablo (The Devil's Throat)

We then headed further down the falls to the Paseo Superior, a short trail along the top of the falls which really gets you into the action zone. Next up was the Paseo Inferior, which winds down the falls through the forest to within just a couple of metres of the lower falls where we both got absolutely soaked. Up close to the falls you feel the might of the water via huge gusts of wind and spray which almost knocks you off your feet. Not to mention blasting both of my contact leanses out. Literally!

The Paseo Superior (Midway down the falls)

The Paseo Inferior (The lower section of the falls)

On day two we headed back across the border to experience the Brazilian side of the falls. Unlike the Argentina side which takes a full day, if not more, this side can be seen experienced in just a couple of hours. The panoramic views of the whole falls are incredible, plus it was also good to see where we had been just 24hrs earlier. 

Views from the Brazilian side of the falls

03- 05.12.10 The Pantanal

I´m sure that you have gathered that Ryan and I are alternating the blog writing and to my delight, I have landed the Pantanal.

The Pantanal is a large wetlands the size of FRANCE(!) which spans two states in Brazil, the Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul.  We were booked on a three day tour which included camping overnight, Piranha fishing, trekking (day and night) amongst other activities.  Originally we were booked to stay in a lodge but Al (the sales person) persuaded me on the journey from the bus station that the rest of the group were camping and that we would be split up in the evening if we didn´t.  I was reassured that camping was underneath a structure in either hammocks or on a mattress and there were mosquito screens up with no chance of tarantular spiders that I had heard inhabit the area.

Our camp

We arrived quite late on the first day as the camp was a five hour ride from Campo Grande where we started the journey.  We jumped into the jeep off the main road as a group of nine and started to spot the fauna straight away.   Over the three days we spotted caiman crocs, marsh deer, river pigs (capybara), toucans, macaws,  howler monkeys, tarantular spiders and a few farmyard animals!  It was amazing to see the animals in their natural habitat at such close proximity.

Jabiru stork - a symbol of the Pantanal

The river pig - a favourite of ours

Caiman crocodiles

Marsh deer

Jabiru storks nesting at 6am!

During the wet season, the water levels can rise up to three meters which means most of the wildlife spreads over a larger region but as we were at the end of the dry season there was very little water and the wildlife was concentrated around the watering holes.  The best part for me (and Ryan, along with swimming in a caiman and piranha filled river), was hearing the howler monkeys in the trees as we approached.  It was pretty daunting as it was so loud, almost like a spooky orchestra.  We saw several monkeys with babies clambering through the trees and I managed to get peed on by one of them.  Amazing.

Howler monkeys - adult with baby

The whole experience was enhanced by the friends we had met - the first ones really on our trip as we had only chattered to people in passing at the hostels previously.  Because of the heat there was a lot of time spent in the shade at camp and the banter (and beers) we shared with them was great.

(From left to right) Beer belly Ryan (his words!), Thomaz (Austria), Lexmy (Netherlands), Rach, Laura, Leon (UK), Mika (Germany) - sorry guys for any mis-spelling!

The second night brought some serious drama to the trip.  I headed off to my hammock early for a spot of reading when I came across a tarantular next to the door to our compound!  A TARANTULAR - my biggest fear (this was just after I had squealed for Ryan to remove the bat)!  Ryan ran over to check out the spider just as it was disapearing down a hole IN THE ROOM.  It was too big even for Ryan to remove so we got Ronny our guide to do an inspection.   I cannot decribe my terror in words but it is safe to say I slept very little that night.  The tarantular and it´s mate appeared twice in the night and I hear the next day that there had been a snake at camp too (although Ryan had tried to keep it a secret).

Bloody great big tarantular - spotted on safari (not the one from camp although when a piccie is received from Thomaz I will upload!)

The guides and tours were great although the piranha fishing involved little more skill than dropping some meat on a hook in the water and pulling out a fish.

Rach after catching an easy Piranha!

One of our guides, gutting a tiny piranha with a machete

Anyway, on the way back I wrote out a mental list of the events of the last few days;

Camping (in a hammock) in the Pantanal - check
Seeing amazing fauna on foot and in a jeep both day and night - check 
Piranha fishing - check
Ryan having to give me a piggy back through a caiman filled swamp as I point blank refused - check
Monkey peeing on my head - check
Swimming in a river with piranha and caiman - uncheck (although Ryan did!!)
Bitten several times by the biggest mosquitos you have ever seen - check
Sleeping in a room with TWO tarantulars and a giant moth (thanks Al!) - check
 
Had more excitement and drama in 3 days than we had had in 3 weeks.  Amazing. Goodbye to the cities for a while and rock on with nature.  Next stop, Iguazu Falls and Argentina.

29.11.10 - 01.12.10 Brasilia

After another gruelling 24 hour bus ride we arrived in Brasilia. Brasilia is radically different to any other city in Brasil, or any I have experienced for that matter. The city is only 60 years old. Before that it was just a vast open planalto. The city was the brainchild of the president Juscelino Kubitschek who promised he would build a new capital located inland within Brazil in just 5 years. Oscar Neimeyer (who else?) designed most of the government buildings whilst Lucio Costa was appointed as urban planner. The city plan is in the shape of an aeroplane. The fuselage is named the Eixo Monumental and is lined by most of the public buildings with a main bus station at the centre. Where the wings hit the fuselage sit the hotels then further down the wings the commercial sectors then the resdential areas. Streets have numbers not names. Addresses have names like 'Superquadra 405'. The whole place reminds me of a Stanley Kubrick film he never made. Very futuristic whilst at the same retro if not kitch. It's incredibly alienating, lacks colour, history or culture yet I love it. My favourite city in Brazil so far. I think I need therapy.

The city is not designed for walking which made our 4.5hr walk though the centre a real adventure. If anyone remembers the computer game 'frogger' - It was just like that! Well worthy on mention is the awesome Cathedral Metropoliana Brasilia and the Praca dos Tres Poderes (square of the 3 powers). No need to waffle on with shallow anecdotes here. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. Adios...

Along the Eixo Monumental. The enormous central park completely deserted. Not even landscaped. A rogue stranger ran into the frame of the shot. Think she was a tourist..

Cathedral Metrololitana Brasilia - Super cool....

The Bibloteca National

The Praca dos Tres Poderes and the National Congress Building

The Esplanada dos Ministerios. Aliens have landed

The Teatro National - Built in the form of an Aztec Temple

The Palacio da Justica