11-16.12.10 - Cordoba Province

Corboda is Argentina's second biggest city to Buenos Aires. It is located in the Central Sierras, the second highest mountain range in Argentina after the Andes. After briefly exploring the city we took a 2 hour bus ride to Alta Gracia, a small colonial town 40km south of the city at the entrance to the Calmuchita Valley. The town is known for it's former Jesuit missionaries who built a large 'estancia' ovelooking the central square - To be frank, we thought it was a little dull....We were far more excited knowing the town was also home to the Guevara family (as in Ernesto 'Che' Guevara). Their former home, Villa Beatriz, has now been converted into the Museo Casa de Ernesto 'Che' Guevara. The museum showcased some of Che's personal belongings as well his original resignation letter to Fidel Castro. My favourite, of course, was the actual Norton motorcycle Che' used to travel Latin America brought to life in the book (& film) The Motorcycle Diaries.

Alta Gracia's Jesuit estancia

Everybody's favourite revolutionary's old home, Villa Beatriz, Alta Gracia

Che's Norton used to travel Latin America made famous in The Motorcycle Diaries

Back in Cordoba that evening we bought ourselves a couple of Argentine T-Bones from the supermarket for around £1 each. Rachel's cooking was the envy of the hostel as we tucked into fine succulent steaks washed down with mighty fine Malbec at £2 a bottle. We are really starting to love Argentina. It's all about meat and wine, then more meat followed by more wine. What could possibly go wrong?

After a couple of nights in Cordoba we headed 100km north to the little town of Capilla del Monte for some walking. This sleepy town lies at the base of 'Cerro Uriturco' which at 1979m, is the Sierra Chica's highest peak, albiet a baby by South America standards.  We set off at 8.30am, an hour later than planned (pretty good by our now lazy traveller type standards). At the base of the mountain we had to complete forms with our names, passport numbers and details of any illnesses before paying 40 pesos (£6) each to climb. We are not used to paying to walk but were told this was common in Argentina. Hmm!! We nailed the 4hr ascent to the top in just 2.35hrs and the 3hr descent in just 2hrs. Sounds hardcore but the start was actually 1000m above sea level.  That said, the walk itself was stunning with breathtaking views at the summit - Roll on Patagonia in January with snow capped summits at 4,000 metres.

The evening before the walk, Cerro Uriturco in the background

Rach and I at the summit of  Cerro Uriturco, camera balanced on a rock hence the wonky horizon!

Our last day in Capilla del Monte was spent cycling to some strange rock formations in a canyon called Paseo del Indio on the outskirts of the town. The £5 bikes we hired were like Trojan horses. Even worse than Chris's Harlem Vegas! After a short scamble up the canyon we found the Paseo del Indio, a 2 foot wide crack up the rock which was supposedly passable. With a little effort and a lot of laughing we got through. Shortly afterwards I crept around the outside of a rock while Rach climbed under it. I regret it now but as Rach entered the other side I made a 'hiss' noise like a snake. Poor Rach jumped a mile and was still shaking when I scrambled around the rock to join her - The last thing she needed after the spider incident. A bad move on my part but we both laughed it off. One of us a lot more than the other.....

Rach on her way up Paseo del Indio

Rach at the top of Paseo del Indio