17-21.01.11 - Navimag Ferry Chilean Fjords (Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt)

We checked our bags in at the suspiciously quiet port and went for something to eat in Puerto Natales with our Danish friend Line. Word at the port was the ferry would sail after a short delay. We couldn't help but notice there seemed to be some tension in the air with military groups hiding in the shadows. We were told we would board at 12 midnight. After a hearty meal it was time to try some Pisco (Chilean grape brandy). Rach had a Pisco Sour, a cocktail of Pisco, lemon juice, sugar and a beaten egg. Our friendly host gave us a Chilean and a Peruvian Pisco on the house to sample the difference between the two. As we came to pay our bill disaster struck. Easily the largest vehicular convoy of protestors passed the window of the restaurant heading for the port. Cars beeping, black flags waving, groups of men shouting. No doubt enroute to block the port and stir things up. We headed to the port to find the military had blocked the roads leading to the ferry and were directing protestors in opposing directions. We cautiously walked through the protestors and spoke to the guards who told us to come back in a couple of hours. They didn't want to stir up the crowd by letting us tourists through. Nightmare! - we were indefintely separated from all of our bags and we didn't know if the ferry would set sail without us. We decided to try the back route. We walked around a few blocks to the other side of the port to find the military there too. Oddly, these guys were really friendly and could tell we were foreigners. They let us through with no drama.

Scene at Puerto Natales port when we left the restaurant

In the boarding room we were then told boarding was delayed until 2am but we eventually boarded at 4am.  The protestors had dissappeared, again it was eerily quiet in the port. 90 of us were ushered to the ferry. We were directed to our cabins and the ferry set sail at 8.30am. Only 4.5hrs after it's scheduled departure. After 7 days of waiting around in Puerto Natales we were back on route as planned. Sadly we were denied the opportunity to trek the 5 day 'W' at Torres Del Paine, one of our highlights for this trip. We were, quite simply, gutted...

This is usually full of containers, trucks and trailors exporting goods out of Pataonia. It was empty due to the strikes. It will have massive implications on the local economy for weeks

A couple of hours later we arrived at the narowest part of the route, the Angostura White narrows only 80 mtrs wide. The ship was 30! As we passed through the narrows we were joined by a family of dolphins. Next we passed through the Sobrenes straits, the most southerly part of our whole South American trip. As daylight diminished we entered the Amalia Estuary at the wall of the Skua Glacier, belonging to the South Patagonian Ice Field. The evening was spent sharing a dyer 'carton' of wine and listening to even worse 90's pop in the bar.

Angostura White Narrows, Chilean Fjords Southern Patagonia

Scenery around the English Narrows. Complete with rainbow.

The Skua Glacier, Amalia Estuary

 

Rach at the hideously small wheel of the ship. Seriously, this was it.

 

The following day we arrived at Puerto Eden located on Wellington Island. The remote island town is home to only 150 inhabitants, many of them from the indiginous sea fairing tribe 'the Kaweskar' who roamed the Magellan Straits. Access to and from the town is from the Navimag which arrives only once a week. From here we continued up the English Narrows (Angostura Inglesa) allowing only one ship at a time. As dusk fell we past the ghostly 'Capitan Leonidas', a cargo ship that ran aground in the 1970's. It is now used as a lighthouse to warn other sailors. Our crew told us we may be able to see hump back whales. No joy - although we did see a few seals and sea lions.

Puerto Eden, home to 150 inhabitants including the remaining Kasweskar people

  The ghostly Capitan Leonidas

That evening we sailed into the open Pacific Ocean. Our ship was being hit by 3-4 metre waves during dinner which made for comedy viewing. People trying to carry trays with soup, spaghetti bolognese and drinks over slippery vinyl to a moving table. Fortunately the crew were on hand to help. That evening the waves increased to 4-6 metres. Many passengers were sea sick but neither Rach or I suffered thanks to the pills. That evening we tried to watch 'Inception' on the big screen in the dining room. Chairs, tables and people were flying everywhere. We decided to call it a night around midnight and head for our bunks. At 1am we both woke to a massive crash. After a few moments silence I heard Rach whisper from beneith 2 blankets and a bed spread 'Ryan we are not going to go over are we?'. 'Of course not' I replied. 'It's not possible'. I wasn't really sure. Some time afterwards we fell asleep. Our heads whacking the headboards every couple of seconds...

On our final day we awoke to mist, lots of it and rain too. I went out on deck which was covered in spagetti bolognese. At least the rain would soon wash it off. We could see nothing of the 3 volcanoes we passed. The day was spent reading and anticipating the evenings entertainment. That night was Bingo Night. The raucous game of  Bingo was a really good laugh, a great end to a great experience. Rach won game 2 which meant she had to dance to Shaggy's 'Boombastic' on her own in front of 90 not-so-strangers.

Er, Bingo!

After a relatively calm night we entered the Corcovado Gulf past Chiloe Island and reached Puerto Montt around 11am. On arrival at our hostel we were not surprised in the slightest to see half the ship staying here too. Oh well....

Rach with our friend Line from Denmark nearing Puerto Montt

Passengers walking off the ferry at the end of the 4 day trip in Puerto Montt