We had planned to cross the frontier from the Atacama Desert into Bolivia, that was before some friends recommended we spend a few nights on a 'Sayta' ranch (known as an
estancia) in Salta, Argentina to exprience the
gaucho lifestyle, the cowboy way of horseriding and farming. Not to mention endulging once more in the Argentine tradition of the
asado. Immense BBQ's of fillet steak, pork and sausage. We decided to cross back over the Altiplano of the Andes at altitudes in excess of 5,000 metres above sea level back into Argentina. We had 2 days exploring in Salta prior to our horsriding adventure where we walked up Cerro San Bernardo for panoramic views of the city before heading into the micro centre to explore. Plenty of walking made us less guilty about the
parillada, a mixed meat banquet, we had eaten the night before!
Iglesia San Francisco, Salta city centre
The following morning we were picked up by Roberto who drove us to the estancia called Sayta for our 2 day stay. Upon arrival we were greeted by our hosts, the hilarious and out-going owner Enrique, his daughter Laura and other family and friends. In Enrique's broken English 'Ryan - this is my effing ex Mother-in-law'!! The ranch itself was awesome and full of rustic charm. After breakfast Catia, the very friendly German volunteer ranch worker, gave us our chaps and led us to our horses. Rachel's horse was called Gypsy and I had Scruffy. A bit like they knew we were travellers I suppose. We were taken on a 2 hour ride through tobacco plant fields led by the uber cool Sergio, an experienced gaucho who made it look so easy. Although somewhat perplexed by Rachels high pitched 'yeee haaa's' Sergio was very patient and full of good advice.
Rachel on Gypsy with the uber-cool gaucho Sergio
Ryan and Rach on Scruffy and Gypsy
After our ride Rach and I were invited to join the family for the asado. Enrique had been slowly BBQ-ing the meat since we stated our ride. We were served copious amounts of fillet steak, sausage and pork with all the trimmings washed down with far too much vino tinto before our afternoon ride. For a further 3 hours Sergio took us through some very challenging terrain through rivers and streams. I thought we would just be doing circles in a small field. After 5 hours on the horse for our first day were were shattered and ready for bed but not before Enrique cooked us pasta washed down with yet more vino.
Enrique´s and Laura´s family and friends
The hilarious Enrique with his asado
The following day 7 more guests arrived to join Rach and I, who had been the only guests on the ranch. We had a 2 hour ride in the morning where we were able to gallop a short distance. Once again, this was followed by yet another huge asado. Enrique's BBQ's are the stuff of legends and need to be seen, and sampled, to be believed. Enrique is a larger than life character and when he says 'eat' you eat. After dinner we simply could not move so opted out of a further ride in favour of a lazy afternoon relaxing on the ranch. As the other riders returned it was obvious we, and some other guests, had been 'relaxing' a little too much, made evident by the empty wine bottles. Most of the other guests left that evening apart from German and Alicia, two Argentine friends from Buenos Aires. That evening we all ate another huge dinner washed down with more vino. We had a fantastic time laughing, joking and practicing our Spanish with new friends.
Enrique's legendary asado lunch enjoyed with fellow guests and gauchos
Rach, Alicia, Ryan, Catia, German, Laura saying goodbye at Sayta
Rach on Gypsy
The following morning we were driven back to Salta with German and Alicia. We met up that evening at 7pm to go for drinks in the Balcarce area, the prime nightlife area in Salta. It was fantastic to meet such friendly people who were extremely patient whilst we praticed our Spanish. After a couple of Fernet and Cokes it was time to say goodbye to our new friends. Our last night in Argentina could not have been spent with two nicer people. A lasting memory of times in our favourite country so far. Boliva tomorrow, things are going to get a little more unpredictable.
Nice 'Ass' ;-)
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