19-24.03.11 Cusco & The Sacred Valley

We finally received confirmation of our Machu Picchu Inca Trail booking whilst in Nazca which meant next stop was Cusco.  Nazca is approx 500m above sea level which meant our bus had to rise up 3000m over the 14hour bus journey.  A real shame that we were asleep for most of it but we were pleased to wake up to see we had left the dessert and were winding up green mountain passes with the sun shining in through the windows.  Unfortunatley our hostel didn´t greet us in the same way.  A landslide a few days earlier had meant that there was no running water in the hostel, for showers, basins or toilets so we dropped our bags off and went hostel shopping.  We spent the day hunting for somewhere better and for an extra 19 Peruvian Soles (4 GBP) per night we ended up staying in a luxury hotel!  The advertised cost was the equivalent of 74 GBP and we have got it for just 22 GBP per night.  Incredible.

The Plaza de Armas, Cusco at night

Cusco from the Cristo Blanco above the city

 Triunfo Hathun, the Spanish literally built their buildings on top of the Inca foundations still seen today

The famous 12 pointed stone on the same street. How they carved with such precision is a mystery

Cusco itself is a really attractive city.  Set nestled amongst the mountains in a natural valley it is full of Colonial architecture with red tiled roofs and elaborate churches.  The only thing we have found to tarnish the place is the hundreds of street sellers trying to rope you into their restaurants or sell you a massage.  Seriously, there must be more massures in Cusco than anywhere else in the world.  The other thing that Cusco has it seems more than anywhere else is Inca and Pre-Inca ruins and we spent at least three of our days in Cusco visiting them.

The closest ruins to Cusco and the most accesible are Tambomachy, Pukapukara, Qe`nkqo and Saqsayhuaman.  We took a taxi to Tambomachy around 11km away and walked back into Cusco visiting the other three enroute.  The most impressive of the four was Saqsayhuaman (pronounced ´sexy woman´) which was the foundations and remains of an old fortress.  The site sits above Cusco up a very steep approach and because of this only requires defense walls on one side.  The structure features three parallel walls that zigzag for over 600m.  The largest stone is huge and weighs approx 150 tonnes.  Incredible how they moved it here from the quarry.  The Inca stonework was really impressive, not requiring any mortar and fitting tight together in crazy shapes.

 The massive stones of Saqsayhuaman

The next day we took a tour bus to the much anticipated Sacred Valley of the Incas which starts at Pisaq and ends at Ollantaytambo following the Rio Urubamba to Machu Picchu.  The tour bus stopped at the ruins at Pisaq, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero with a stop for a pretty good buffet lunch in Urubamba.  Our tour guide gave us great explainations of the ruins and we were amazed we got such a good deal for 6GBP each.  Our favourite was the first stop at Pisaq which was set high above the village with a series of stone terracing leading upto it which are thought to be shaped into a partridge wing - Pisaq means ´partridge´.

Locals in traditional dress. The kids look particulaly impressed with the grongos taking pics. 

Which actually cost us 2 Soles

 The Inca ruin of Pisaq. The terraces were used for agriculture

We bored ourselves senseless the following day by visiting both the Inca Museum and the Qorikancha Site Museum which to our untrained eyes were displaying very similar artifacts.  Although both museums are really good in their own right, having visited the Pre-Colombia Museum in Santiago we felt like we had absorbed a lot of detail already.  Although please, don´t quiz us on it!

On our final day in Cusco Ryan had spotted a great deal to hire out a Honda XR 250cc trail bike which I didn´t fancy.  So we had our second day apart in nearly 5 months.  I booked on another tour which took me to visit the Ruins of Moray and a salt mine.  The ruins of Moray were unlike any we had seen so far.  Firstly, a lot of the site had been reconstructed to allow the visitor the appreciate the acoustics and how the site would have originally looked and secondly, the Inca terracing was circular.  The site is thought to be an experimental nursery where seeds and corn were adapted to different climates.  In some cases, there can be a temperature difference of upto 5 degrees C between each terrace.  Once the plant has hardened upto a lower terrace, the seeds were then used on the terrace above and so on.  This method explains the presence of fruits and vegetables in the high altitude which can only be found in other countries in lower plains.

The Inca site of Maras Moray

Ryan on his mororbike having just toured The Sacred Valley

In the meantime Ryan had a fantasic day touring the Sacred Valley.  He only got lost a couple of times, managed to get chased by a dozen ankle biting dogs and stopped by the police twice.  Which was only routine, certainly not for speeding or anything bravado.

Inca Trail tomorrow with a briefing this evening. Can't wait.

17 - 18.03.11 Nazca, Peru

From Arequipa we took a night bus north up the coast to see the mysterious Nazca Lines. Spread along 500 square kilometres of arid desert the lines consist of over 800 straight lines, 300 figures and 70 animal or plant drawings. The reason for the lines remains unknown. The German scientist Maria Reiche suggested the lines were from the Nazca cultures from 900BC to 600AD and claimed they formed part of a sophisticated astronomical calendar. Others claim they are alien landing sites or representations of shamans’ hallucinations caused by taking drugs. Having seen them I’m putting my money on the latter.

Shortly after arriving we caught a local bus 20 minutes from Nazca along the Pan American Highway to an observation tower to view the lines up close and personal. We had read the tower was 50 metres high. It was more like 15! Our oblique view of ‘the lizard’ and ‘the hands’ was a real disappointment.  The forms seemed tiny and nothing like the vast condor shapes stretching across the desert that we were expecting. We walked up a nearby hill to view them from a different vantage point but again saw relatively little.

The 50 metre platform which was actually more like 15 metres

Oblique view of 'The Hands' also known as 'The Frog' from the platform

Every now and then a tiny plane would circle overhead. It was obvious the only way to see these lines is from the air. We had heard of a plane crash in October killing 6 tourists and more recently in February injuring 10. I won’t repeat the expletives that came out of Rachel’s mouth but lets just say she wasn’t very keen on the idea. Undeterred, I booked myself a 45 minute flight the following morning for 100 US Dollars.

 The tiny plane and the pilot

I was advised to skip breakfast because the 6 seater plane can feel a bit like a rollercoaster, especially if the wind is up. Once inside and seated the plane felt like a toy. It was like being back in my Fiat Panda, in fact the stereo looked very similar. The take off was surprisingly very smooth. The Peruvian pilot was banking hard left and right and we were soon seeing the whale, the monkey, the hummingbird and the impressive 200m condor to name just a few.  The experience was fantastic, if only for the ride itself. Some of my fellow passengers didn’t enjoy the ride quite so well and I can say for certain that the Canadian lady behind me did not skip breakfast. Cusco next and the famous Inca Trail…

The Hummingbird

The Spider - Middle of the photo and down a bit

The famous Condor - Below and just right of the rectangle

I was sat just behind the pilot with an amazing view of the runway. It was nice to see it. Phew!!

12-16.03.11 Arequipa & Colca Canyon

An uneventful bus journey took us to relatively wealthy southern city of Arequipa. The city is also known as the 'White City' for 2 reasons. First, the historical quarter is built from a white 'Sillar' stone. Second, a large number of white immigrants have settled here in the past, and for good reason.  Arequipenan's are rightfully very proud of their city and we heard from some locals that they like to think themselves different from the rest of Peru. Some even have their own passports which are bought from the local markets for a few soles!  The historical quarter was beautiful and had very European feel. I would go as far as saying the main Plaza De Armas was like an Italian piazza, Florence springs to mind.  A real change from our ´rough and rustic` view of Bolivia.  Beauty aside, our main draw to the city was it's proximity to the Colca Canyon.

I call this one - Grinning gringo on a fountain 2011

The Cathedral overlooking the Plaza De Armas

We hired a guide and transport to the Canyon for a 3 day, 2 night trek.  Our transport arrived at the unearthly hour of 3am to allow us time to get to the ‘Cruz del Condor’ (Condor Cross) before 9am to give us the best opportunity of spotting the magnificent Andean Condor.  We nodded off in the car and awoke with a chill at 6am to find that we were heading over the 4900m mountain pass in the snow!  We had a safe driver (thank god we weren’t still in Bolivia) and enjoyed the descent down the other side of the Andes to amazing views of snow capped mountains and steep green hills.  The weather wasn’t great at the Cruz del Condor, in fact you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face let alone a Condor 10m away, so we decided our best bet was return at the end of our trek.

Our initial view into the Colca Canyon. Our first night stop was in the village of Cosñirhua in the distance

The trek into the Canyon started at Cabanaconde, a small village where our bi-lingual (Spanish and Quechua) guide Remi grew up.  He shared with us a fountain of knowledge about flora, fauna, local and inca beliefs and practices over the next few days.  The Colca Canyon is located about 160km north-west of Arequipa named after the river Colca that flows on the Canyon bottom.  It is thought to be in places twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and therefore the deepest in the world.   

After a 1200m steep downhill trek into the canyon, we stopped at a small village called San Juan de Chuccho for a traditional vegetable soup followed by Alpaca stir fry.  It was all made in a tiny mud hut and served to us amongst their organic veg garden – perfect.  We then had a short walk to Cosñirhua where we were to spend our first night with a local family in ‘basic’ accommodation consisting of a bed in a shed like structure with mud floor.  A French couple and their guide were also staying with the same family so within no time we were gathered in the kitchen hut whilst our food was being prepared.  An early night was on the cards and we slept surprising well only to be woken at dawn by the sounds of nature and the gurgling of the Guinea Pigs in the yard. It´s worth mentioning that these were not pets and in a few weeks, when they double in size, they will be served on a plate with rice and vegetables.

After a filling (and not so traditional) breakfast of banana pancakes, we set off for our toughest day of walking.  We stopped in the next village across Malata and visited a local museum where our guide introduced traditional working methods from grinding corn to the traditional dress. 

Rach and our local guide Remi

After an easy stretch back down to the Colca River, our spot for lunch was a little oasis complete with palm trees, flowers and swimming pool.  Perfect chance for relaxation before the 1200m steep hike back to Cabanaconde.  The hike wasn’t as bad as we thought and within 2.5hrs we were back at the top taking in the beautiful views.

Nearing the Oasis Lodge where we had lunch

We awoke to blue skies and by 10am we were sat at the Cruz del Condor watching at least 6 magestic young condors circling within 5m of us.  Truly amazing, jaw dropping, unforgettable.  Unfortunately, our photo skills are not great and below are the best of a bad bunch.

A young condor recognised by it´s brown feathers whilst the mature birds are black and white. 

The wingspan is over 3 metres!

Next stop was the hot springs of La Calera.  After 15 mins of 39ºC water in hot sunshine, we settled by the bar with a beer and Colca Pisco made with cactus fruit.  Lunch was held at a newly opened restaurant and we were lucky enough to participate in the inauguration ceremony.  Champagne, beers and sweets were handed out whilst the owner made a speech and smashed the Champagne with a hammer.  A sure way to make everyone sleep on the bus on the way back.

10-12.03.11 Puno, Peru

Shortly after leaving Copacabana we reach the border with Peru. It was by far our easiest boarder crossing yet. The guard didn´t even look at the photo page on our passports, nor did he raise his head to look at my pathetic grin as he gave us a 90 day pass to spend lots of money in his country. After a few hours around Lake Titicaca we reached the city of Puno, the jumping off point for visiting the floating Uros Islands and Taquile. A guy collered us on the bus saying he had a great hotel in town. With no reservations for anything else we cautiously jumped in a taxi with him. It turned out to be one of the nicest (and cheapest) hotels we have stayed in with an ensuite, towels, cable TV, carpets and wireless internet. This doesn´t sound much but trust us, after Bolivia, this was like The Dorchester. It was £11 for both of us per night with breakfast...lush!

Our friendly bus guy also sold tickets to visit the unusual floating Uros Islands, as well as anywhere else come to think of it. In fact, it was all a bit too convenient. The Uros Islands are on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca which is 60% Peruvian and 40% Bolivian. It seemed a good deal so the following morning we took a boat tour to the Islands. In essense, the Uros culture live on huge man-made rafts made built out of totora reeds. The islands have been inhabited by the Quechua speaking Uros Indians for hundreds of years who built the islands as a retreat against the all conquering Incas. There are hundreds of foating islands but we visited a small island called San Perdo where we were greeted by a small community of 4 or 5 families. Each island has it's own president who was happy to describe the process of making an island, island life, cooking and fishing etc. He was also very quick to demonstrate the islands skills in weaving and handicrafts so of course they made a good few quid out of us. Now, where shall we put that hanging reed boat come fish come star hanging wind chime thingy?

The President of San Perdo Island explaining how the floating islands are made

Lady and daughter proud of their handicrafts. We bought the thing on the left having not being made to feel guilty what-so-ever!

After being invited into their homes we were given the opportunity to take a ride on a totora reed boat. The President told me it takes on average 6 men 6 months to make each boat which only lasts 1 year. The sun on Lake Titicaca during the day is immensely hot due to the altitude yet conversely temperatures plummet to freezing at night. This is when the Uros culture do their fishing for Trucha (trout) allowing time in the day for weaving and visiting the mainland to trade for vegetables, oh and Nike trainers it seems!

Being waved goodbye by the locals

The President with his totora reed boat

Locals on another nearby floating island

From Uros we visited the communities on the island of Taquile where people still wear traditional dress and follow ancient local customs. The island is literally covered with ancient terracing allowing islanders to cultivate crops on hideouly steep inclines. During our visit we witnessed a band playing and women dancing in the streets. The seemingly eternal carnival could be heard acros the island. A great soundtrack to our Titicaca trout lunch.

 Dancing on Taquile

 Carnival band on Taquile

Back in Puno that evening we ventured into the narrow streets only to find half the town's population gathered on the main avenue each armed with 2 cans of spray foam. Once again it was a complete free-for-all as the carnival atmosphere continued into the night. Men, women, even dogs were covered in foam and there was simply no avoiding it, not even by diving into the nearest gringo pizza restaurant to watch the events unfold.

07-10.03.11 Copacabana, Lake Titicaca & Isla Del Sol, Bolivia

Having recovered from Carnival we caught a bus and a ferry to the small town of Copacabana which overlooks the blue waters of the vast Lake Titicaca. With no reservations we turned up to a pleasant little hostel with a double room and ensuite for £3 each per night with breakfast included. Copacabana is seriously cheap. It seems nobody told the Bolivians Carnival is over and within 5 minutes of walking through town we were once again soaked with water. We passed groups of men decorating their cars, minibuses and trucks with flowers and ribbons then pouring copious amounts of beer over the bonnets. It was a painful sight - even at 30p a bottle!

Street parties were continuous during our 3 day stay in Copacabana

Nearly all the cars, taxi's and trucks were decorated like this

 

Copacabana is  Bolivia's most important pilgrimage sight as home to the statue Virgin de Copacabana which is where the famous Brazilian beach in Rio got it name. Not to mention the nightclub near Havana immortalised by our favourite large-nosed singer Barry Manilow! However, for us Copacabana is really just a jumping off point to visit the sacred island of the Isla Del Sol. The island was one of the most impotant religious sites of the Andean world. The indigenious people thought it was where the sun and the moon were created and where the Inca dynasty was born. We caught a boat to a village called Challapampa on the north tip of the island and walked the 9.5km to the Southern village of Yumani. Being the largest of over 40 islands with an altitude of 3,800 metres above sea level the 3.5 hour walk to catch the only boat back to Copacabana wasn't quite as easy as expected.  The scenery was incredible and the 2.5h each-way boat trip was well worth it.

The Isla Del Sol, Lake Titicaca

 

The following day we walked up the nearby Cerro Calvario, a hill that overlooks the town, for spectacular views across the lake. Even from the top we could still hear various parties, music and drums eminating from the town. Obviously nobody has told the Bolivians that Carnival is over, rumour has it it continues for another week. Whoo!

View of Copacabana from Cerro Calvario

 

The Cathedral which totally dominates the small town

05.03.11 Oruro Carnival, Bolivia

Back in La Paz we booked a 24hr (4am to 4am with no sleep) party to the Oruro Carnival. Carnival is celebrated during the 5 days before Ash Wednesday, and as it seems a few days after.  Rio is by far the most famous but Oruro in Bolivia is also one not to be missed. It celebrates it’s carnival in what is considered to be one of the most spectacular cultural events in all South America. After a British curry at The Star of India in La Paz followed by a token sleep we set off to Oruro at 4am. Not sure what to expect we were given T-Shirts, Jester Hats, 2 cans of spray foam and waterproof ponchos. Things were about to get messy.

At 9am we were ushered to our seats in the very cramped makeshift stands ready for the start of the proceedings. The street vendors were already out in full force selling cans of beer which everybody was drinking. We justified it by realizing we had been up for 5 hours so we cracked open a beer and a wine Rach had siphoned into a Coke bottle. Classy! By 10am the crowd was ready for the Devil Dance, known as La Diablada.

 The initial parades of dancers, Aymara women and local bands

With the help of our guide Moses, and a little reading, the procession can be pathetically and unjustly summarised as follows;

Satan and Lucifer led the procession of hundreds of dancers in incredible outfits. Other dancers were dressed as monkeys, pumas, bears, ewoks, insects and Amazonian tribes. It was bizarre to put it mildly. Some of the dancers were dressed as Incas with headdresses shaped like condors whilst others were dressed as black slaves in reference to those brought over by the Spanish. There were hoards of Bolivian women dressed in traditional Aymara dress and girls in mini skirts bouncing along the 8km carnival circuit. Despite the Spanish attempts to convert the indigenous population to Christianity, the Diablada is still pretty much a pagan festival of thanks to Mother Earth, or Pachamama. It commemorates the struggle between the forces of good and evil.  In essence there are two dances. The first re-enacts the Spanish Conquest. The second shows Archangel Michael defeating the forces of evil with his flaming sword taking on the devils and the Seven Deadly Sins. To be honest, it was difficult to see where one dance ended and the other began but there was a constant flow of people from 10am to well past midnight, or so we were told.

Different groups from various regions of Bolivia with their own interperetation of La Diablada 

Having started drinking so early the alcohol started to take its toll and the overexcited crowd started squirting foam at each other whilst water-bombs rained down like..erm..heavy rain. It was mayhem, a real free-for-all with everyone joining in young and old. We were not aware of this so called tradition but we soon realised what the ponchos were for.  Being Gringos made us a target for the worst of it and after only an hour or so we were soaked and covered in 'stuff'. The dodgy chicken box lunch came and went, the beer was flowing and after a few quarter bottles of ‘I’d-rather-not-know-what’ the late hours were a bit of a blur.  Luckily though Rach got most of it on camera, only some of which I am prepared to post on this blog.

Rach and I with an English couple we met earlier in the day

I admit I may have been slighty tipsy

Somewhat worse for wear we were herded to our bus by our guide like a shepherd herds his flock. As far as we were concerned the 4 hours back to La Paz didn’t exist. We were just glad we made it back in one piece. It was by far the most hedonistic night our trip…..Sunday was a complete and utter write off.