10-12.03.11 Puno, Peru

Shortly after leaving Copacabana we reach the border with Peru. It was by far our easiest boarder crossing yet. The guard didn´t even look at the photo page on our passports, nor did he raise his head to look at my pathetic grin as he gave us a 90 day pass to spend lots of money in his country. After a few hours around Lake Titicaca we reached the city of Puno, the jumping off point for visiting the floating Uros Islands and Taquile. A guy collered us on the bus saying he had a great hotel in town. With no reservations for anything else we cautiously jumped in a taxi with him. It turned out to be one of the nicest (and cheapest) hotels we have stayed in with an ensuite, towels, cable TV, carpets and wireless internet. This doesn´t sound much but trust us, after Bolivia, this was like The Dorchester. It was £11 for both of us per night with breakfast...lush!

Our friendly bus guy also sold tickets to visit the unusual floating Uros Islands, as well as anywhere else come to think of it. In fact, it was all a bit too convenient. The Uros Islands are on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca which is 60% Peruvian and 40% Bolivian. It seemed a good deal so the following morning we took a boat tour to the Islands. In essense, the Uros culture live on huge man-made rafts made built out of totora reeds. The islands have been inhabited by the Quechua speaking Uros Indians for hundreds of years who built the islands as a retreat against the all conquering Incas. There are hundreds of foating islands but we visited a small island called San Perdo where we were greeted by a small community of 4 or 5 families. Each island has it's own president who was happy to describe the process of making an island, island life, cooking and fishing etc. He was also very quick to demonstrate the islands skills in weaving and handicrafts so of course they made a good few quid out of us. Now, where shall we put that hanging reed boat come fish come star hanging wind chime thingy?

The President of San Perdo Island explaining how the floating islands are made

Lady and daughter proud of their handicrafts. We bought the thing on the left having not being made to feel guilty what-so-ever!

After being invited into their homes we were given the opportunity to take a ride on a totora reed boat. The President told me it takes on average 6 men 6 months to make each boat which only lasts 1 year. The sun on Lake Titicaca during the day is immensely hot due to the altitude yet conversely temperatures plummet to freezing at night. This is when the Uros culture do their fishing for Trucha (trout) allowing time in the day for weaving and visiting the mainland to trade for vegetables, oh and Nike trainers it seems!

Being waved goodbye by the locals

The President with his totora reed boat

Locals on another nearby floating island

From Uros we visited the communities on the island of Taquile where people still wear traditional dress and follow ancient local customs. The island is literally covered with ancient terracing allowing islanders to cultivate crops on hideouly steep inclines. During our visit we witnessed a band playing and women dancing in the streets. The seemingly eternal carnival could be heard acros the island. A great soundtrack to our Titicaca trout lunch.

 Dancing on Taquile

 Carnival band on Taquile

Back in Puno that evening we ventured into the narrow streets only to find half the town's population gathered on the main avenue each armed with 2 cans of spray foam. Once again it was a complete free-for-all as the carnival atmosphere continued into the night. Men, women, even dogs were covered in foam and there was simply no avoiding it, not even by diving into the nearest gringo pizza restaurant to watch the events unfold.