30.04.11 - 01.05.11 Vilcabamba

After leaving the disaster struck Banos we caught a bus south towards the Peruvian boarder to Loja. We arrived at 1am and after a 7 hour sleep we caught a local bus to Vilcabamba, famous for long life. Whilst rumours of 130 year old people are exaggerated studies have shown that the population of this little remote town live longer than anyone else on earth. Upon arrival it was easy to see why. This place was idyllic; a remote tropical town nestled between lush green valleys. The area benefits from an eternal spring climate with glorious sunshine and afternoon rain showers you could set your watch by.

Nearing the end of our trip, and having stayed in dingy dives, we decided to treat ourselves and opt for the best hostel in town, the heavenly Ischcayluna. This German run oasis was by far the best place we have stayed.  Hidden amongst tropical gardens overlooking the town and the surrounding hills the hostel consisted of lodge style cabins with balconies and hammocks. Perfect for a couple of days relaxing before the mammoth journey home and the impending bedlum of finding a house, a car, moving in and starting back at the ‘w’ word.

After chilling out for the first day I was starting to get a bit restless and the Manchango hills across the valley were calling out to be conquered. The following morning we woke to find huge golf ball sized lumps on Rachel’s hands where she had been bitten by, we think, ants. We managed to find a chemist where a guy gave us some tablets to reduce the swelling. Satisfied that Rach was going to be ok I decided to tackle the 4 hour ridge walk along the Manchango Loop. After struggling to find the path I cut my way through brambles in blistering heat and made my way to the first summit in under an hour and continued across the ridge which way only 2 feet wide in some places.

I had been warned of a barking dog near a farm house and was pleasantly surprised when I ran past in silence with only a few inquisitive looks from cows. After dropping down the valley and running through streams I made my way back towards the road when disaster struck. I came across a clearing and saw a huge dog spot me. Immediately it stood up barking running straight for me. To my delight it was tied up and it stopped short just in front of me. Then I heard more barks, within seconds another dog, this one untied, came running around the farmhouse barking and going fang-out crazy. I pretended to pick up a stone which did nothing other than almost put my face in the dogs mouth. I decided to run. The dog chased me off it’s property and to surprise I escaped without being bitten. I did the whole 4 hour loop in just 2 hours. I think the dog helped!

Back at the hostel I found Rach relaxing, we had lunch, relaxed some more, had dinner and slept ready for an early morning bus to Piura in Peru to catch a connection bus to Lima where we catch our flights home. Gulp!