After missing out on the Bolivian and Peruvian jungle due to floods and over inflated prices we decided to take the opportunity to enter the Ecuadorian Amazon region known as the Northern Orient and into the primary rainforest area of the Reserva Faunistica Cuyabeno. Reaching this remote area was always going to be difficult and time consuming but we thought it was worth it. We caught an 8 hour overnight bus to the ugly oil town of Lago Agrio 12 miles from the Columbian boarder. The contrast between this town and the bewildering natural beauty just beyond exemplified the ongoing 40 year battle between the oil industry, who are eager to get their hands on the oil under the jungle, and conservation in the region. The UK government website said that the town had also been infiltrated by Columbian FARC guerillas and that the town was considered a dangerous area. In other words not a place to hang around looking like lost gringo's. Upon arrival we quickly jumped in a taxi to a restaurant where we met our transport to the Cuyabeno reserve. After a 3 hour bus ride followed by a 3 hour ride in an open canoe down the Cuyabeno River we arrived at the stunning Nicky Amazon Lodge, our home for 3 nights.
Our lodge was fantastic. Built on a raised wooden platform with completely open sides and palm roof it really gave the impression of being outdoors in the wild. To Rachel's delight, the bed had a hanging mosquito net to keep away nocturnal nasties. After dinner we went on a short jungle night walk around the camp. It's the rainy season here so much of the jungle floor was flooded. Armed with wellies we waded through the dense jungle in awe of the cacophony of sounds from whatever is was that was watching us.
As we retired for the night we got back to our lodge to do the routine checks for any creatures that might have fancied a bit of company. At the side of the bed a foot away from my pillow I found a frog chilling out and minding it's own business. The second night we found a salamander in roughly the same spot and a small tarantula in the bathroom on the look out for some insects. It was all part of the experience. The sounds that night were incredible. Birds, monkeys, crickets and other unknown creatures were calling to out each other throughout the night. It was pretty spooky but a sound I will never forget. Surprisingly Rach and I both slept really well, no doubt due to such a manic night bus, severe bends, a careless driver and a day of travelling. Well worth it though.
During the trip I really wanted to see a snake, preferably the elusive Anaconda. I actually saw two snakes so I guess the box was ticked. Unfortunately one of them was 3 metres way and the one I did get to see up close was tiny. It was more like a worm in fact. As expected the jungle has it's fair share of mosquitoes. Even when smothered with repellent the mosquitoes here still bite. They even bite through clothing drawing blood. After the second day we were covered in bites and poor Rach got the worst of it. Not surprisingly her skin must taste a lot better than mine and she was covered in itchy bites, one of which swelled up like a golf ball. We are both taking anti-malaria tablets so were not too worried and now we are out of the jungle the bites are starting to disappear. Phew!
All in all the jungle trip was a fantastic experience. Putting up with the humidity and the mosquitoes was well worth it. As we left the lodge it started to rain, Amazon style. We set off in the canoe for our 3 hour boat ride up river back to meet a bus back to Lago Agrio. We were given heavy duty ponchos which the rain pierced through in minutes. Well, this is the rainforest I suppose.
Our boat driver looking suitably impressed as we fumbled around with our gear
Our lodge was fantastic. Built on a raised wooden platform with completely open sides and palm roof it really gave the impression of being outdoors in the wild. To Rachel's delight, the bed had a hanging mosquito net to keep away nocturnal nasties. After dinner we went on a short jungle night walk around the camp. It's the rainy season here so much of the jungle floor was flooded. Armed with wellies we waded through the dense jungle in awe of the cacophony of sounds from whatever is was that was watching us.
The Nicky Amazon camp, our home for 3 nights
Rach on our first night's jungle walk
As we retired for the night we got back to our lodge to do the routine checks for any creatures that might have fancied a bit of company. At the side of the bed a foot away from my pillow I found a frog chilling out and minding it's own business. The second night we found a salamander in roughly the same spot and a small tarantula in the bathroom on the look out for some insects. It was all part of the experience. The sounds that night were incredible. Birds, monkeys, crickets and other unknown creatures were calling to out each other throughout the night. It was pretty spooky but a sound I will never forget. Surprisingly Rach and I both slept really well, no doubt due to such a manic night bus, severe bends, a careless driver and a day of travelling. Well worth it though.
Frog next to our bed. Chilling out minding it's own business
The following days were spent cruising the local rivers and lakes with the help of our expert yet incoherent Ecuadorian guide Patick and the rest of our group. Once again we had fantastic company by way of two German lads (Armine and Daniel), two Aussie Ladies (Jo and Catherine) and a family from Los Angeles (Brent, Kalene and Erin). We were quickly spotting groups of squirrel monkeys, howler monkeys and pocket monkeys, all of which were super fast and impossible to photograph. At one point whilst our guide Patrick was explaining the behaviour of the squirrel monkeys Brent spotted a snake in a tree directly in front of us. It was around 1.5 metres long and whilst it was incredibly secretive and good at hiding Patrick soon identified it was a Amazon Rainbow Snake. However, I was a bit suspicious because it looked very grey to me!
The second day was an early 5.30am start to get to the top of a nearby bird tower to watch macaws and parrots. Or so we thought, Patricks daily itinery was constantly changing and something that on he was party to. If Patrick said we were going bird watching, that meant a boat trip. If Patrick said we were going swimming, that meant we were going for a jungle walk. It was actually pretty funny and the source of much banter amongst the group. That afternoon we visited a local community and had a look where the children go to school followed by a visit to a local family who gave us a tour of their gardens. The lady of the house proudly showed us her home grown cacao, coffee beans, papaya fruit, coconut and root vegetables which we all tasted to varying levels of enjoyment. Everything was going great until their pet monkey jumped on Rachel's head and sank it's claws in. Fortunately Rach was ok if not a little shaken and glad to be back on the boat heading for another jungle walk.
The Amazon community we visited on the second day
The dense jungle beneith the canopy
The walking palm. This bizarre tree 'walks' up to 1.5 metres in any direction towards the light
Squirrel Monkey - I think. They were really fast and very difficult to photograph
During the trip I really wanted to see a snake, preferably the elusive Anaconda. I actually saw two snakes so I guess the box was ticked. Unfortunately one of them was 3 metres way and the one I did get to see up close was tiny. It was more like a worm in fact. As expected the jungle has it's fair share of mosquitoes. Even when smothered with repellent the mosquitoes here still bite. They even bite through clothing drawing blood. After the second day we were covered in bites and poor Rach got the worst of it. Not surprisingly her skin must taste a lot better than mine and she was covered in itchy bites, one of which swelled up like a golf ball. We are both taking anti-malaria tablets so were not too worried and now we are out of the jungle the bites are starting to disappear. Phew!
Me with the snake (more like worm) we caught swimming in a lagoon off the Cuyabeno River
The culprit that jumped on Rachel's head
All in all the jungle trip was a fantastic experience. Putting up with the humidity and the mosquitoes was well worth it. As we left the lodge it started to rain, Amazon style. We set off in the canoe for our 3 hour boat ride up river back to meet a bus back to Lago Agrio. We were given heavy duty ponchos which the rain pierced through in minutes. Well, this is the rainforest I suppose.
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