23-27.04.11 Quilotoa & Cotopaxi

After a brief stop over in Quito on our way back from the jungle we caught a bus to the forgetful city of Latacunga, jumping off point for Lake Quilotoa and the Cotopaxi Volcano. Latacunga itself is a large city not worthy of words other than it sits within Ecuador's 'Avenue of the Volcanoes'. The following day we caught a bus to Lake Quilotoa, this 800 year old volcano crater lake is said to be one of Ecuador's must-see sights. We set off on the 4 hour circuit of the lake and after a few minutes were joined by a friendly German bloke called Marco. What we thought was going to be a rather leisurely stroll turned out to be quite an epic. At 3,800 metres the circuit continuously dropped and climbed 250 metres leaving us gasping for air. The views of the lake were stunning, at least for the first half until the weather closed in.  The heavens opened, lightening struck and thunder erupted. The mist gave way every now and then to tease us with views of the lake. Back in Quilotoa, where we started, we caught a ride in a pick up truck back to the bus stop to Latacunga. Despite the weather we had a fantastic day out walking and at the very least it was good to acclimatize for Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano is the world.

The 800 year old crater Lake Quilotoa, the circuit was a lot longer than it initially looked.

Rach around the half way point just before the heavens opened with German Marco in the distance

After a day of relaxing I booked a guide to climb Cotopaxi. Having been uncomfortable at altitude Rach decided to give it a miss and instead of waiting 24hrs for me to return she decided to head to Banos where I would join her after my climb.

Cotopaxi is 5,897 metres above sea level making it 1,000 metres higher than anything we have done. Acclimatization is crucial and should not be underestimated. I said goodbye to Rach and met my guide Emilio who drove us to the parking area 200 metres below the Jose Rivas refuge at 4,800 metres. Joining us in the jeep were 2 Norwegian girls and their guide. To my surprise they told me they had just come from the Galapagos Islands at sea level and were not acclimatized at all. After a 200 metre climb we arrived at the refuge at 3pm. After dinner we sorted out our gear and practiced with the crampons ready for the midnight ascent. Cotopaxi is climbed at night when it's cold so the snow and ice is hard to reduce the risk of avalanche. Being a near perfect cone shape an avalanche at the top would have no respite. We went to bed around 7pm. After not sleeping a wink in 4 hours we set off at midnight in pitch black armed with head torches, ice axes, crampons, harnesses, ropes the lot. I was advised that the ascent takes between 6 & 7 hours with a 3 hour descent.

My guide Emilio (left) and Paul, another guide, not favouring the conditions the evening before the climb

Arriving at the Jose Rivas refuge the evening before the climb

 Sunset from the Jose Rivas refuse around 6.30pm, shortly before going to bed

Midnight at the refuge, geared up and ready for the off

 

The weather conditions were horrendous. It was snowing constantly. The progress was slow and after 2 hours the Norwegian girls were forced to turn back due to altitude sickness leaving me and Emilio to plough on towards the glacier ice shelf. After a further 1.5hrs Emilio carried out some checks with his ice axe in the snow and said that conditions were very poor. He dug 2 foot into the snow only to find slush. This meant there was a significant risk of avalanche, not immediately but during the descent in the morning when the sun heats up the snow. Nightmare!! Roped together we decided to continue a further 30 minutes and carry out some further checks. To my horror after climbing a short way up the glacier a guy and his guide came the opposite way saying the risk of avalanche was just too high. We walked another 10 minutes determined to get as high as possible. Emilio decided enough was enough and made the call to turn back. In my head I know it was the right decision but in my heart I was gutted.  Having feared altitude sickness I actually felt really strong and didn't struggle at all, I wasn't expecting the weather to put a stop to things.

Putting on crampons, in the dark, at 4,800 metres took some effort. The light here is from my camera flash

We returned after only 4 hours walking and only reaching 5,300 metres due to the conditions. Way behind schedule. Back at the refuge I tried to catch some sleep but it was futile, my mind was racing. We set off back to Latacunga at 8am. The ride back was more terrifying than the climb. We dropped a couple of hundred metres in snow in an antique death trap jeep with bald tyres and no traction.

Loading up the death trap

Back in Latacunga I quickly got the rest of my gear from a storage room in the hostel and caught the first bus to Banos to meet Rach. On the bus my mind was still racing but I concluded with this thought; better to have tried and failed than to have tried and died. I totally respect the decision to turn back. Cotopaxi is not going anywhere in my life time. It can wait!